Destination Guides > New Zealand > Northland

Northland

This region starts north of Auckland and stretches to the northern tip of the North Island and boasts the country's warmest weather and a wealth of natural attractions including kauri forests, long sandy beaches and isolated coves and islands. The area was one of the first parts of the country to be settled by Europeans and includes the site where the Treaty of Waitangi was signed.

The Bay of Islands is the most popular destination in Northland. Other popular attractions include scuba diving at the Poor Knights Islands, off the coast from Whangarei, and driving along the 90 Mile Beach to Cape Reinga at the northern most tip of the North Island.

Waipu

Located about half an hour south of Whangarei, Waipu is a fairly ordinary town that's proud of its Scottish origins. There are some fun water-based activities that you can do from here.

Practical Information

Waipu Information Centre

There's a small information centre at the Waipu Heritage Centre, although the information is rather limited.

36 The Centre, Waipu

Tel (09) 432 0746

Website www.waipumuseum.com

Open 9.30am-4.30pm daily

Waipu Off-Licence & Cyber Centre

Waipu's off-licence also doubles as an Internet café so you can check your email when you pop in for a six-pack.

15-17 The Centre, Waipu

Tel (09) 432 0225

Open Mon-Thu 9am-6.30pm, Fri-Sat 9am-7.30pm

Accommodation

The Ebb & Flow

Johnson Point Road, Waipu

Tel (09) 432 1288

Waipu Wanderers

25 St Mary's Road, Waipu

Tel (09) 432 0532

Sights

Waipu Heritage Centre

This interesting museum makes a big deal about the town's Scottish heritage with displays explaining about the migration of Scottish Highlanders who moved from Nova Scotia to New Zealand where they established Waipu. There is a genealogy centre on site where you can dive into your family's history.

36 The Centre, Waipu

Tel (09) 432 0746

Website www.waipumuseum.com

Admission $5

Open 9.30am-4.30pm daily

Whangarei

Northland's provincial capital is a fairly ordinary regional centre with a few interesting museums and Town Basin, a riverside marina with adjoining shopping centre. Most budget travellers use Whangarei as a base for New Zealand's premier diving and snorkelling spot – the Poor Knights Islands.

Practical Information

Whangarei Information Centre

This information centre, located south of the city centre, features a combination tourist information centre and Department of Conservation information centre and there is also a café on site.

Tawera Park, 92 Otaika Road, Whangarei

Tel (09) 438 1079

Website www.whangareinz.org.nz

Open Mon-Fri 8.30am-5pm, Sat-Sun 9.30am-4.30pm

Coming & Going

InterCity and Northliner Express coaches stop at Northland Coach and Travel on Rose Street.

Accommodation

Bunkdown Lodge

23 Otaika Road, Whangarei

Tel (09) 438 8886

Central Backpackers (Hatea House)

67 Hatea Drive, Whangarei

Tel (09) 437 6174

Little Earth Lodge

85 Abbey Caves Road, Whareora, Whangarei

Tel (09) 430 6562

Whangarei Falls Backpackers

Ngunguru Road, Tikipunga

Tel (09) 437 0609 or 0800 227 222

Whangarei Manaki Tanga YHA

52 Punga Grove, Whangarei

Tel (09) 438 8954

Sights

Abbey Caves

These caves near Whangarei are home to glow worms and 30 million year old limestone formations. It is a wet water cave and the tour requires a reasonable level of fitness.

Tours depart from Bunkdown Lodge, 23 Otaika Road, Whangarei

Tel (09) 438 8886

Tours cost $40

Tours depart 10am & 2.30pm

Clapham's Clocks

Clapham's Clocks is an unusual museum that has been around for 100 years and now boasts a collection of over a thousand timepieces.

Dent Street, Town Basin, Whangarei

Tel (09) 438 3993

Website www.claphamsclocks.co.nz

Admission $8

Open 9am-5pm daily

Whangarei Falls

Located 5km north of the city centre, these 26.3 metre falls are one of New Zealand's most photogenic.

Ngungurua Road, Tikipunga

Bus Local bus every 45 minutes Mon-Sat

Whangarei Art Museum

The Whangarei Art Museum is the major art gallery in the Northland region. It hosts a variety of temporary exhibits.

Calfler Park Rose Gardens, Water Street, Whangarei

Tel (09) 430 4240

Website www.whangareiartmuseum.co.nz

Admission by donation

Open Mon-Fri 10am-4pm, Sat-Sun noon-4pm

Whangarei Museum

This museum complex comprises both indoor and outdoor exhibits and is set on 25 hectares of parkland, 5km west of the city centre. It features a nocturnal kiwi house with live kiwi, a colonial homestead dating from 1886 and exhibits on the region's Polynesian and European history.

4 State Highway 14, Maunu

Tel (09) 438 9630

Admission $7

Open 10am-4pm daily

Poor Knights Islands

Many divers regard the Poor Knights Islands as one of the world's top 10 dive sites. The Pacific Ocean around the islands is home to New Zealand's most diverse range of marine life, which includes a colourful mix of sub-tropical and tropical fish. Common species include rays, Moray eels and Kingfish (some as big as 40kg).

Whangarei and Tutukaka, 30 minutes drive from Whangarei, are the main places to organise trips out to the islands.

Companies that organise dive trips include:

Dive Connection

Dive Connection run PADI training and also organise trips to the islands.

140 Lower Cameron Street, Whangarei

Tel (09) 430 0818

Dive HQ

Dive HQ offer dive courses and also organise diving trips to the twin wrecks and the Poor Knights Islands.

41 Clyde Street, Whangarei

Tel (09) 438 1075

Website www.divenow.co.nz

Knightdiver

Knightdiver offer guided underwater tours to the Poor Knights Islands.

30 Whangarei Heads Road, Whangarei

Tel (09) 436 2584 or 0800 766 756

Website www.poorknights.co.nz

Full day trip with two dives $160

The Poor Knights Dive Centre

This well regarded company runs trips to the islands and also wreck dives to the twin wrecks, 2km north of Tutukaka. They also organise trips to the islands for non-divers.

Marina Road, Tutukaka

Tel (09) 434 3867 or 0800 288 882

Website www.diving.co.nz

Full day trip with two dives $175

Bay of Islands

The Bay of Islands is the major tourist region in Northland and features several small towns including Kerikeri, Paihia, Russell and Waitangi, which overlook a beautiful bay dotted with 144 islands.

This area is a popular weekend getaway for New Zealanders who come here to sail between the various coves and islands.

The Bay of Islands also has many other activities that are geared toward backpackers. These include several affordable cruises as well as fishing trips, sea kayaking and excursions where you can swim with dolphins.

There are several different towns in the area, each with its own attractions and it is worth visiting several towns to get a good feel for the area.

Coming & Going & Local Transport

Paihia is the main centre in the Bay of Islands and consequently handles most long-distance bus and coach services that arrive and depart from the Maritime Building on Marsden Road.

Much of the transport around the region radiates from Paihia with frequent buses and ferries to other towns in the Bay of Islands. In addition to the backpacker buses, InterCity and Northliner operate coaches to other areas in Northland. There are several places in Paihia where you rent a car to explore the region.

Fullers operate ferries between Paihia and Russell (the 15 minute trips costs $5 each way and depart every half hour). If you have your own car you can take it on the car ferry, which runs between Opua (6km from Paihia) and Okiato near Russell. The car ferry runs every 10 minutes and costs $8 each way or $15 return for a car and driver, plus $1 each way for each passenger. With a couple of passengers, this can be cheaper than the direct passenger ferry between Russell and Paihia.

The region's airport is in Kerikeri and has regular flights from Auckland. An airport shuttle bus (tel (09) 407 9515) links Paihia with Kerikeri airport. Fares vary between $10 and $20 depending on the number of passengers.

Paihia

Paihia is the main centre of the Bay of Islands tourist trade. It has several excellent backpackers hostels and the Bay's best nightlife and is the hub for most of the activities.

Practical Information

Awesome Adventure Centre

This tour booking office provides information geared towards backpackers. They also offer Internet access.

Maritime Building, Marsden Road, Paihia

Tel (09) 402 6985

Website www.awesomeadventures.co.nz

Open Jan-Mar 7am-8pm daily; Apr-Oct 8am-4.30pm daily; Sep-Dec 7am-8pm daily

Bay of Islands Visitor Information Centre

This is the main information centre in the Bay of Islands and it is worth popping in here even if you plan to spend more time in one of the other towns in the region.

The Wharf, Marsden Road, Paihia

Tel (09) 402 7345

Open 8am-5pm daily

INTERNET ACCESS

Boots Off

13 Selwyn Road, Paihia

Tel (09) 402 8262

Website www.bootsoff.net.nz

Open Mon-Fri 9am-7pm, Sat-Sun 10am-7pm

6 Kings Road, Paihia

Tel (09) 402 8262

Website www.bootsoff.net.nz

Open Mon-Fri 9am-late, Sat-Sun 10am-late

Accommodation

Paihia is one of the main centres of New Zealand's backpacker party scene and most action happens on Kings Road, which is also where many of Paihia's hostels are located. If you want to party then a Kings Road hostel should be your first choice, otherwise you should stay at a hostel away from Kings Road.

Bay Adventurer

28 Kings Road, Paihia

Tel (09) 402 5163

Captain Bob's Beachhouse

44 Davis Crescent, Paihia

Tel (09) 402 8668

Centabay Lodge

27 Selwyn Road, Paihia

Tel (09) 402 7466

Lodge Eleven YHA

Corner Kings & MacMurray Roads, Paihia

Tel (09) 402 7487

Mayfair Lodge

7 Puketona Road, Paihia

Tel (09) 402 7471

Mousetrap Backpackers

11 Kings Road, Paihia

Tel (09) 402 8182

Peppertree Lodge

15 Kings Road, Paihia

Tel (09) 402 6122

Pickled Parrot

Greys Lane, Paihia

Tel (09) 402 6222 or 0508 727 768

Pipi Patch Lodge

18 Kings Road, Paihia

Tel (09) 402 7111

Saltwater Lodge

12 Kings Road, Paihia

Tel (09) 402 7075 or 0800 002 266

Eating & Drinking

Paihia's nightlife is centred on Kings Road, although most of the cheap eating options are on Williams Road and opposite the Maritime Building on Marsden Road. The Woolworths supermarket is located on Puketona Road north of the town centre.

Activities

The Bay of Islands has plenty of water-based activities.

BOAT CRUISES

The Bay of Islands is a popular spot for a cruise and there is a big variety to choose from ranging from high-speed craft to small yachts. Many cruises sail out to Motukokako Island, which is famous for the 'hole in the rock' that most of the bigger and faster boats sail through. Boats that make it out this far also sail past the picturesque Cape Brett lighthouse. Many of the bigger, slower boats cater to the blue rinse set but the high-speed boats like the Excitor and Mack Attack have more of a backpacker focus.

Excitor

No, it's not the latest product from Durex. It's an 18-metre speedboat that jets out to the hole in the rock in just 1½ hours.

Maritime Building, Paihia

Tel (09) 402 7020

Website www.excitor.co.nz

Return trip $68

Departure times 8.30am, 10.30am, 12.15pm, 2pm, 4pm

Mack Attack

No, it's not the latest McDonalds promotional menu. It's another boat that claims to be the fastest to the rock (also 1½ hours).

Maritime Building, Paihia

Tel (09) 402 8180 or 0800 622 528

Website www.mackattack.co.nz

Return trip $68

Departure times from 7am on demand subject to numbers

The Rock

This big boat offers overnight cruises that feature island treks, snorkelling, kayaking and a phosphorescence swim. It gets mixed reports from travellers, but generally if you are looking for a good time you will have a good time on this boat. It's a good value trip and the price includes a night's accommodation on board plus a barbecue dinner and breakfast.

Corner Marsden & Williams Roads, Paihia

Tel 0800 762 527

Website www.rocktheboat.co.nz

Cost 24 hour overnight cruise $138 including dinner and breakfast

SEA KAYAKING

There are several companies in the Bay of Islands that offer sea kayaking that range from a half day to two-day overnight trips.

Coastal Kayakers

This company operates guided sea kayak trips that take you past the Waitangi treaty grounds, through mangrove forests to the Haruru Falls. The two-day trip goes further afield and allows you to experience islands in the bay.

Te Karuwha Parade, Ti Bay, Waitangi

Tel (09) 402 8105

Half day trip $45, full day trip $65, two day trip $120

Island Kayaks

Island Kayaks operates out of the Pipi Patch Lodge and runs half day trips that take you past mangroves to secluded bays where you can snorkel or relax on the beach.

18 Kings Road, Paihia

Tel (09) 402 7111 or 0800 611440

Website www.acb.co.nz/kayaks

Half day trip $55

SAILING

If you're looking for a slower paced, but more hands-on experience than a simple boat cruise, then sailing a yacht on the Bay of Islands may be for you. There are several companies that operate yacht trips that range from one to three-day cruises. Most of the one-day cruises depart Paihia or Russell around 10am, returning around 4pm.

Carino Sailing

Carino operate full day sailing trips on a spacious 40ft catamaran. This boat makes plenty of island stops where you can swim or snorkel and there are often opportunities to swim with dolphins.

Tel (09) 402 8040

Website www.sailinganddolphin.co.nz

Full day sailing $80

Departs Paihia 9.30am, departs Russell 9.45am

Ecocruz

This fantastic three-day sailing trip aboard a 22 metre (72ft) ocean-going yacht allows you plenty of time to really experience the Bay of Islands. The trip includes sea kayaking, snorkelling and fishing and you get to explore islands. There's also the opportunity to see marine wildlife, including dolphins. The trip is fully inclusive and includes all meals and accommodation on board.

Tel 0800 4 ECOCRUZ (0800 432 6278)

Three day cruise $375-425, includes all meals and accommodation

Departs Paihia Tues 8am, Fri 8am

She's a Lady

This yacht makes full day trips on the bay with lunch on an island and opportunities­ for snorkelling, swimming, fishing and knee boarding.

Tel 0800 724 584

Website www.bay-of-islands.com

Full day sailing $76 includes lunch

Departs Russell 9.30am, departs Paihia 10am

Straycat

Straycat is a fast stable catamaran that does full day trips on the bay. You have an opportunity to see dolphins and penguins and participate in activities that include fishing, swimming and snorkelling.

Tel (09) 402 6130

Full day sailing $85 including lunch

Departs Russell 9.30am, Paihia 10am

SWIMMING WITH DOLPHINS

Awesome Adventures

Awesome Adventures run small (35 seat) catamarans out on the Bay of Islands, which have the warmest waters in New Zealand where you can swim with dolphins. Bottlenose and Common dolphins can both be seen from the boat and you have a 90% chance of seeing them. The best time to see dolphins is between April and June, Orca are frequently spotted between April and October, Brydes whales between May and June and migrating whales including Blue, Humpback and Pilot whales are often spotted May-April and August-September.

Maritime Building, Marsden Road, Paihia

Tel (09) 402 6985

Website www.awesomenz.com

Cost $99

Departs Paihia 8am & 12.30pm daily

SKYDIVING

Bay of Islands Skydive Centre

The Bay of Islands Skydive Centre offers tandem skydives in the country's warmest drop zone where you are treated to views of both the east and west coasts. Jumps are from 6000, 9000 or 12,000 feet.

Bay of Islands Skydive Centre

Tel (09) 402 6744 or 0800 427 593

Website www.skydive4fun.co.nz

Tandem jump from 6,000ft $185, 9,000ft $220, from 12,000ft $260

Waitangi

Waitangi, immediately to the north of Paihia, is New Zealand's most important historic site. The Treaty of Waitangi was signed here in 1840, which effectively handed New Zealand over to British rule. The Treaty House and adjoining visitor centre is the highlight of a visit to the Bay of Islands and offers a crash course in New Zealand history. Waitangi is also home to a Maori meetinghouse and a huge waka (war canoe).

Sights

Waitangi Treaty Grounds

The Waitangi Treaty Grounds were the scene of the signing of Waitangi. They feature an elaborate traditional carved Māori meeting house, the Treaty House and a canoe house that features Ngatokimatawhaorua – one of the largest ceremonial war canoes in the world with a hull carved from two huge Kauri trees.

1 Tau Henare Drive, Waitangi

Tel (09) 402 7437

Website www.waitangi.net.nz

Admission $10, one-hour guided tour an additional $10

Open summer 9am-6pm daily; winter 9am-5pm daily

Russell

A short ferry ride across the bay from Paihia, Russell is a quaint town with a more relaxed feel than party destinations like Paihia. Russell has a colourful history and in the 1830s, Russell had a notorious reputation as a rough and ready town and over the years has seen plenty of conflict between Maori and the British settlers.

Practical Information

Department of Conservation Visitors Centre

The Strand, Russell

Tel (09) 403 9005

Open summer 9am-5pm; winter 9am-4.30pm

Accommodation

Kororareka Backpackers

22 Oneroa Road, Russell

Tel (09) 403 8494

Wainui Backpacker's Lodge

Te Wahapu Road, Te Wahapu

Tel (09) 403 8278

Activities

Many of the activities available in Paihia can also be done through Russell, this includes many of the cruises, which pick up passengers here. See the Paihia section for more information.

Sights

Pompallier

New Zealand's oldest building associated with the Catholic Church has been used as a printer's workshop as well as a tannery and storehouse. It is unique in the fact that it is the oldest surviving example of a rammed earth

building. There is a museum on site featuring demonstrations of printing, binding, leatherwork and tanning.

The Strand, Russell

Tel (09) 403 7861

Admission $5

Open Jan-Apr 10am-5pm daily; May Nov guided tours 10.15am, 11.15am, 1.15pm, 3.15pm daily; Dec 10am-5pm daily

Russell Museum

This interesting museum recounts the history of the early years of Maori-European contact and also has some fascinating displays about the whaling industry. One of the museum's main attractions is the 1:5 scale model of Captain Cook's ship the Endeavour.

2 York Street, Russell

Tel (09) 403 7701

Admission $3

Open Jan 10am-5pm daily; Feb-Dec 10am-4pm daily

Kerikeri

Located slightly inland at the northern end of the bay, Kerikeri is home to several historic buildings. However the town's main draw card for budget travellers is the abundance of casual work picking fruit in the nearby orchards.

Coming & Going

InterCity and Northlander Express coaches stop outside the vegetable shop on Cobham Road.

Accommodation

Aranga Holiday Park

Aranga Drive, Kerikeri

Tel (09) 407 9326

Hideaway Lodge

Wiroa Road, Kerikeri

Tel (09) 407 9773 or 0800 562 740

Hone Heke Lodge

65 Hone Heke Road, Kerikeri

Tel (09) 407 8170

Kerikeri Farm Hostel

State Highway 10, Kerikeri

Tel (09) 407 6989

Kerikeri YHA

144 Kerikeri Road, Kerikeri

Tel (09) 407 9391

Sights

Kemp House & Stone Store

New Zealand's oldest European building (Kemp House) and the country's oldest stone building (the Stone Store) are located at the Kerikeri River Basin, a 20-minute walk from the town centre. It is a fascinating site if you're interested in New Zealand history.

245 Kerikeri Road, Kerikeri

Tel (09) 407 9236

Admission $5

Open 10am-5pm daily

Rewa's Village

This reconstructed Māori fishing village depicts how Māori lived in the Kerikeri area before the arrival of missionaries.

1 Landing Road, Kerikeri

Tel (09) 407 6454

Admission $2.50

Open summer 9am-5pm daily; winter 10am-4pm daily

The Far North

Having come as far as Northland, many travellers decide to push further north to Cape Reinga. Although there is little more here than a lighthouse and a signpost, the trip to the top features the Ninety Mile Beach, sand dunes and some lovely scenery.

Kaitaia

Kaitaia is a depressing place and few travellers choose to stay longer than is really necessary. However the town is the best spot to organise travel up to Cape Reinga. The beach at nearby Ahipara is very nice and if you have your own car it is a nice alternative to Kaitaia.

Practical Information

Kaitaia Visitor Centre

Jaycee Park, South Road, Kaitaia

Tel (09) 408 0879

Open 8.30am-5pm daily

Accommodation

Endless Summer Lodge

245 Foreshore Road, Ahipara

Tel (09) 409 4181

Hike & Bike Hostel

160 Commerce Street, Kaitaia

Tel (09) 408 1840

Main Street Backpackers

235 Commerce Street, Kaitaia

Tel (09) 408 1275

Sights

Far North Regional Museum

This small museum features displays relating to local history. These include the de Surville anchor, which was left in New Zealand in 1769, earlier than any other item of European origin. The other main attraction at this museum is a replica of the ancient Kaitaia carving.

6 South Road, Kaitaia

Tel (09) 408 1403

Admission $3.50

Open Mon-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am-4pm

Cape Reinga Tours

Most travellers visit Kaitaia to organise a tour to Cape Reinga. The best way to experience the cape is to drive along Ninety Mile Beach, however rental car companies prohibit this and people frequently get their cars stuck in the sand. If you don't have experience driving in sandy conditions, it's best to leave the driving to a tour company. Some of these trips also have departures from the Bay of Islands, however leaving from Kaitaia means that you can sleep in an extra couple of hours.

Dune-Rider

The Dune-Rider runs trips to Cape Reinga in custom-built 4WD coaches, which include a drive on Ninety Mile Beach and boogie boarding on the sand dunes. These trips depart from Paihia, but picking the tour up at the Big River Café in Awanui, near Kaitaia, is a better option if you don't want to wake up too early.

Big River Café, Awanui

Tel (09) 402 8681 or 0800 494 868

Website www.dunerider.co.nz

One-day tour $60 from Awanui, $95 ($85 BBH, HI/YHA, VIP) from Paihia/Kerikeri

Pick up 7.15am from Paihia, 7.50am from Kerikeri, 10am from Awanui (near Kaitaia)

Harrisons Cape Runner

Harrisons Cape Runner operates daily trips between Kaitaia and Cape Reinga that include a drive along Ninety Mile Beach and tobogganing on sand dunes.

123 North Road, Kaitaia

Tel (09) 408 1033

Website www.ahipara.co.nz/caperunner

One-day tour $40

Marty's Pack or Paddle

Marty runs short kayaking trips plus longer tours that are a good option for outdoorsy people. Activities include fishing, kayaking and sand boarding.

Tel (09) 409 8445

Website www.packorpaddle.co.nz

2 hour sand boarding trip $35; half day kayak trip $55-125; full day kayak trip $125-175

Sand Safaris

Sand Safaris run trips between Kaitaia and Cape Reinga that feature a drive along the Ninety Mile Beach and through the Te Paki quick sand stream.

221 Commerce Street, Kaitaia

Tel (09) 408 1778 or 0800 869 090

Website www.sandsafaris.co.nz

One-day trip $48

Departs Kaitaia 9am

Pukenui

This small town about half way up the Aupouri Peninsula is a popular spot for independent travellers to stay while travelling to Cape Reinga. It is the most northern town of any size and there is a good choice of backpackers' accommodation within a 20-minute drive from here.

Accommodation

North Wind Lodge

Otaipango Road, Henderson Bay

Tel (09) 409 8515

Houhora Backpackers' Heaven

Wagener Holiday Park, Houhora Heads Road, Houhora Heads

Tel (09) 409 8564

Pukenui Farm Backpackers

Lambs Road, Pukenui

Tel (09) 409 7863

Pukenui Lodge YHA

Corner State Highway 1 and Wharf Road, Pukenui

Tel (09) 409 8837

Cape Reinga

The main attraction of Cape Reinga is the trip up here. Once you have arrived at the cape, you'll find a lighthouse and signpost and you'll also get to see the Tasman Sea meet the Pacific Ocean. There are some good hiking trails around Cape Reinga that offer spectacular coastal views.

Accommodation

The closest accommodation to Cape Reinga is Waitaki Landing, 21km south of the Cape.

Waitaki Landing

Far North Road, Waitaki Landing

Tel (09) 409 7508

Hokianga Region

Hokianga Harbour is the main feature in this seldom visited region on Northland's west coast. Most travellers passing though the Hokianga region do so because they want to travel a different route south having already travelled up the east coast of Northland through the Bay of Islands.

Kohukohu

This small town is the northern terminus of the Hokianga vehicle ferry and it is home to a great little hostel, which is located a couple of kilometres past the ferry wharf.

Coming & Going

Because there's no bridge across the Hokianga Harbour you will have to take the Hokianga car ferry, which sails between Kohukohu and Rawene about once an hour between 7.45am and 8pm (the last sailing from Rawene is at 7.30pm). The crossing takes around 15 minutes and the one-way fare costs $14 per car, $2 for foot passenger and $3.50 for a motorcycle.

Accommodation

Tree House Backpackers Lodge

168 West Coast Road, Kohukohu

Tel (09) 405 5855

Rawene

The Southern terminus of the Hokianga vehicle ferry is a pleasant spot to have a coffee while waiting for the ferry.

Coming & Going

The Hokianga car ferry sails between Rawene and Kohukohu about once an hour between 7.30am and 7.30pm. The crossing takes 15 minutes and the one-way fare costs $14 per car, $2 for foot passenger and $3.50 for a motorcycle.

Opononi & Omapere

These two neighbouring towns near the entrance of Hokianga Harbour offer accommodation but there isn't a real lot to see or do. However it is a pleasant enough place to spend a day or two.

Practical Information

Hokianga Information Centre

State Highway 12, Omapere

Tel (09) 405 8869

Website www.hokiangatourism.org.nz

Accommodation

Globetrekkers

State Highway 12, Omapere

Tel (09) 405 8183

House of Harmony

State Highway 12, Opononi

Tel (09) 405 8778

Okopako – the Wilderness Farm

140 Mountain Road, Opononi

Tel (09) 405 8815

Kauri Coast

The west coast between the Hokianga and Kaipara Harbours was once densely forested in the magestic Kauri, which were logged heavily for use in shipbuilding and for rebuilding San Francisco.

Dargaville

You'll pass through Dargaville if you're driving up State Highway 12. Although the town doesn't offer much, it is a good base for exploring the surrounding area. Nearby attractions include the Kai Iwi Lakes, the 100km long Baylys Beach and pockets of kauri forest.

Practical Information

Kauri Coast Information Centre

Normanby Street, Dargaville

Tel (09) 439 8360 or 0800 528 744

Website www.kauricoast.co.nz

Open Mon-Fri 8.30am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am-4pm

Accommodation

Dargaville Holiday Park

10 Onslow Street, Dargaville

Tel (09) 439 8296

Greenhouse Backpackers

13 Portland Street, Dargaville

Tel (09) 439 6342

Kaihu Farm

State Highway 12, Kaihu

Tel (09) 439 4004

Sights

Dargaville Museum

This small museum has exhibits on local history that include relics from shipwrecks, an operational gum washing plant, a pre-Maori carving and one of the largest pre-European hand-adzed canoes on display in New Zealand.

Harding Park, Mangawhare, Dargaville

Tel (09) 439 7555

Admission $5

Open 9am-4pm daily

Kauri Museum

The excellent Kauri Museum is located in Matakohe, which is 45km south of Dargaville on State Highway 12. It features buildings constructed from kauri, a steam sawmill, kauri furniture, a massive 22½m long kauri slab and the world's best display of kauri gum.

Church Road, Matakohe

Tel (09) 431 7417

Website www.kauri-museum.com

Admission $12

Open Jan-Apr 8.30am-5.30pm daily; May-Oct 9am-5pm daily; Nov-Dec 8.30am-5.30pm daily

Waipoua Kauri Forest

Following State Highway 12 north from Dargaville will take you to the Waipoua Kauri Forest, which is home to the majestic kauri tree – among the world's largest trees. The Waipoua Forest Park has an excellent information centre and some good hiking tracks including some walks as short as five minutes.

Among the highlights is New Zealand's largest tree, Tane Mahuta (The Lord of the Forest). This huge tree is estimated to be around 2000 years old. Although it is only 51.5 metres tall, its impressive girth of 13.8 metres makes it a solid, but stumpy, monster of the forest.

The forest is also home to the country's second largest tree – Te Matua Ngahere (the Father of the Forest).

Practical Information

Department of Conservation

Waipoua Forest Park

Tel (09) 439 0605

Website www.doc.govt.nz