Destination Guides > New Zealand > Manuwatu-Wanganui

Manawatu-Wanganui

Many travellers pass through this large region in the central North Island but few stop anywhere en route apart from Tongariro National Park at the northern tip of Manawatu-Wanganui. The main cities in this region include Palmerston North and the historic river city of Wanganui. Some travellers come here to kayak the brilliant Whanganui River Journey in the Whanganui National Park.

Ruapehu District

Tongariro National Park

New Zealand's first, and the world's fourth, national park encompasses several of the North Island's largest active volcanoes including Mounts Ngauruhoe, Ruapehu and Tongariro. The majestic Mount Ngauruhoe is perhaps the most easily recognisable with its distinct conical features, while neighbouring Mount Ruapehu is home to the Whakapapa and Turoa ski areas.

Ruapehu made news in 1995 and 1996 when it erupted, cutting the ski season short – Whakapapa is back in business and is still the North Island's leading ski resort.

State Highway One runs through the bleak Rangipo Desert on the eastern edge of the park where it is known as the Desert Road. Driving along this route is a surreal sight with a dry and barren foreground against a backdrop of smoking snow-capped volcanoes.

There are several excellent hiking trails in Tongariro National Park including the three-to-four-day Tongariro Northern Circuit and the one-day Tongariro Crossing, which is regarded as New Zealand's best one-day walk. There are several companies that operate transport to and from the trailhead from Taupo, Turangi, Ohakune and National Park Village, making the Tongariro Crossing a popular day-trip. The park also has some good shorter walks from Whakapapa village as well as the climb to Mount Ngauruhoe's summit.

Practical Information

Whakapapa Visitor Centre

State Highway 48, Whakapapa Village

Tel (07) 892 3729

Open 8am-5pm daily

Coming & Going

Although both Taupo and Turangi make good bases for Tongariro National Park, the smaller towns of National Park and Whakapapa Village are a more convenient alternative. National Park is on the rail line for trains between Auckland and Wellington and is also a stop for long-distance coach services. There are shuttle buses connecting National Park and Whakapapa Village.

Several hostels in Taupo organise transport to and from Tongariro National Park specifically aimed at day-trippers hiking the Tongariro Crossing.

Hiking

Hiking is the main attraction at Tongariro National Park. There is a wide selection of walks that range from an easy 15-minute stroll to demanding multi-day treks.

SHORT WALKS FROM WHAKAPAPA VILLAGE

There are several day walks from Whakapapa Village, with most of them departing from near the information centre.

The shortest is the Whakapapa Nature Walk (15mins) that starts 250m from the information centre taking in some of the regions unique flora.

The Mounds Walk (20mins) starts 5km south of the information centre. This interpretive walk takes you past mounds that were formed thousands of years ago by Ruapehu's volcanic activity.

The Ridge Track (30-40mins) is another short walk that departs from the information centre. This walk climbs through beech forest to the ridge where you are rewarded by panoramic views.

The varied Silica Rapids Walk (7km, 2½hrs) leaves from the information centre and follows a stream before arriving at Silica Rapids.

Taranaki Falls Walk (6km, 2hrs) is a longer walk that takes you to Taranaki Falls, which drop over a lava flow into a pool surrounded by boulders.

Whakapapaiti Valley Walk (4-5hrs) is a diverse walk through beech forest and along mountain ridges with fabulous views.

TONGARIRO CROSSING

The Tongariro Crossing (17km, 6-8hrs) is the most popular hiking trail in the park and many people describe it as the world's best one day hike. It starts with a climb up to the saddle between the summits of Mt Ngauruhoe and Mt Tongariro and passes breathtaking scenery and then its downhill to the finish line at Ketetahi car park.

There are several side trips that you can take; these include climbing to the summits of both Mt Ngauruhoe and Mt Tongariro and a short hike to Soda Springs.

You can walk this trail in either direction but most people start in the Mangatepopo Valley as this route involves less climbing. Much of the hike is over steep volcanic rock and it is recommended that you only undertake this trek if you're reasonably fit.

Most people complete the Crossing in one day, but there are two huts and campsites on the track so you may want to make it a two-day hike if you plan on tackling some of the side trips. Some people spend the first night at Mangatepopo hut so they can get an early start the following morning and beat the crowds that arrive by bus between 7.30am and 8.30am. It is possible to combine part of the Northern Circuit with the Tongariro Crossing, which enables you to start the walk from Whakapapa Village – this option involves hiking between Whakapapa and Mangatepopo Hut and adds an extra 8.5km (3-5hrs) to the hike.

Transport to the Crossing

Several companies operate shuttle buses for hikers tackling the Crossing.

Alpine Scenic Tours (tel (07) 386 8918; website www.alpinescenictours.co.nz) departs Taupo at 6.30am and Turangi at 7.30am arriving at the trailhead­ at 8.30am and picking you up at the end of the track at 5.15pm. Return fares are $25 from Turangi and $30 from Taupo.

If you're staying in National Park Village, Tongariro Crossing Transport (tel (07) 892 2827), run by Howard's Lodge, departs the village at 7.45am and costs $16 for the return trip.

The car park at the trailheads is notorious for theft and even if you have your own car it is advisable to take one of the shuttle buses.

TONGARIRO NORTHERN CIRCUIT

The Department of Conservation (DOC) classifies the Tongariro Northern Circuit (50km, 3-4 days) as one of New Zealand's Great Walks. It takes in the more spectacular parts of the Tongariro Crossing, including the saddle between Mt Ngauruhoe and Mt Tongariro. Most people start and finish the Northern Circuit at Whakapapa Village, but some people start at Mangatepopo as this ties in nicely with many of the shuttle bus operators who drop off here for hikers doing the Tongariro Crossing.

The Northern Circuit is broken into four main sections, each ending at a hut making it possible to spend four days on the Circuit.

If you're starting at Whakapapa, the first section goes from Whakapapa Village to Mangatepopo Hut (8.5km, 3-5hrs) where it meets up with the Tongariro Crossing. You get a nice view of Mt Ngauruhoe and Mt Tongariro but this stretch can get muddy after wet weather.

The next section goes between Mangatepopo Hut and Oturere Hut (11km, 5½hrs). The stretch between Mangatepopo Hut and Emerald Lake follows the same route as the Tongariro Crossing along the saddle between the two mountains. It is possible to make side trips from here to the summit of both Mt Ngauruhoe (3hrs return) and Mt Tongariro (2hrs return). At Emerald Lake the track splits between the Tongariro Crossing and Northern Circuit, which descends into the Oturere Valley with views of the valley and the Rangipo Desert.

The section between Oturere Hut and Waihohonu Hut (8.5km, 3hrs) is a fairly easy day that passes several streams and open fields of volcanic gravel.

The home stretch from Waihohonu Hut back to Whakapapa Village (15½km, 5½hrs) follows the Waihohonu Stream before climbing the often windswept, Tama Saddle. The track passes the lovely Taranaki Falls about an hour before it ends back at Whakapapa Village.

MOUNT RUAPEHU CRATER CLIMB

The Mount Ruapehu Crater Climb (5hrs) is the most challenging one-day hike on the national park. You have to take the Waterfall Express chairlift to the start of the walk. There are two main routes to the crater, but they are unmarked making it essential to bring along a good map and compass. During winter you'll need crampons, an ice axe and to be experienced in hiking and climbing in extreme conditions.

ROUND THE MOUNTAIN

The Round the Mountain hike (4-6 days) circumnavigates Mount Ruapehu and is accessible from either Turoa Ski Area (near Ohakune) or from Whakapapa Village. This hike features great mountain views, particularly of Mount Ruapehu, and is ideal for people who find the more popular walks too crowded.

Skiing & Snowboarding

The Mount Ruapehu Ski Area (website www.mtruapehu.co.nz) is New Zealand's largest and has two resorts, one on either side of the mountain.

Snowboarders and skiers alike love Turoa, which features long runs and New Zealand's longest vertical drop (720m). Most people skiing at Turoa stay at Ohakune, which is only 17km away.

On north western side of the mountain is Whakapapa. It boasts great views of Mt Taranaki and is a popular resort for beginners while still providing challenging runs for more advanced skiers. Whakapapa has its own village on the mountain but many people base themselves at National Park Village, which is only a short distance away.

There are several lift passes available that allow you to ski at both ski areas. The Rocket Pass is designed for beginners and features four days of lessons, ski or snowboard rental and lift tickets for $349. Alternatively a one-day lift pass is $62 or $89 for a lift pass with ski rental or $102 for a lift pass and snowboard rental.

National Park Village

This small town on the main north-south train line was set up as an accommodation base for hikers and skiers visiting the national park. It has excellent transport connections and a good selection of accommodation, but it is a dismal place with very little character.

Coming & Going

National Park is on the Auckland to Wellington rail line and is also a stop for long-distance coach services.

Tongariro Crossing Transport (tel (07) 892 2827), run by Howard's Lodge, departs the village at 7.45am for the Tongariro Crossing trailhead and costs $16 for the return trip.

Accommodation

Adventure Lodge & Motel

Carroll Street, National Park

Tel (07) 892 2991

Howard's Lodge

Carroll Street, National Park

Tel (07) 892 2827

National Park Backpackers

Findlay Street, National Park

Tel (07) 892 2870

Plateau Lodge & Motel

Carroll Street, National Park

Tel (07) 892 2993

Pukenui Lodge

Corner Millar Street & State Highway 4, National Park

Tel (07) 892 2882 or 0800 785 368

Ski Haus

Carroll Street, National Park

Tel (07) 892 2854

Ohakune

Ohakune is located on the southern slopes of Mount Ruapehu at the foot of the mountain road leading to the Turoa Ski Resort. This small ski resort town is New Zealand's carrot capital and it has a great atmosphere and lively nightlife. It is a much nicer place to stay than National Park Village, which is 20 minutes away.

Practical Information

INFORMATION CENTRES

Visitor Information Centre

Clyde Street, Ohakune

Tel (06) 385 8427

Website www.ruapehu.tourism.co.nz or www.ohakune.info

Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat-Sun 9am-3.30pm

Department of Conservation

Ohakune Mountain Road, Ohakune.

Tel (06) 385 0010

Open Mon-Fri 9am-12.30pm & 1pm-3pm

INTERNET ACCESS

Snowbird Copy Centre

92 Clyde Street, Ohakune

Tel (06) 385 8766

Website www.snowbirdbiz.com

Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat-Sun 9.30am-5pm

Coming & Going

Ohakune has good transport connections with two daily trains on the Auckland-Wellington line and InterCity coaches to Auckland, Taupo and Wellington.

Snow Express (tel (06) 385 9280) runs a regular service between Ohakune and the Turoa ski fields.

Tongariro National Park Shuttle (tel (06) 385 8561) runs a daily shuttle that departs Ohakune at 6.30am for hikers tackling the Tongariro Crossing. The return fare is $25.

Accommodation

Alpine Backpackers

7 Miro Street, Ohakune

Tel (06) 385 8758

Matai Lodge

Corner Clyde & Rata Streets, Ohakune

Tel (06) 385 9169

Rimu Park Lodge

27 Rimu Street, Ohakune

Tel (06) 385 9023

The Hobbit

Corner Goldfinch & Wye Streets, Ohakune

Tel (06) 385 8248

Wanganui & Whanganui
National Park

Wanganui

Wanganui is one of New Zealand's oldest European settlements and it boasts a cultural scene beyond what one would expect from a city of 45,000 people. This lovely city on the Whanganui River has beautiful parks and gardens and is one of the country's more pleasant towns.

Practical Information

Wanganui Information Centre

101 Guyton Street, Wanganui

Tel (06) 349 0508

Open Mon-Fri 8.30am-5pm, Sat-Sun 9am-3pm

Department of Conservation

74 Ingestre Street, Wanganui

Tel (06) 345 2402

Open Mon-Fri 8am-5pm

Coming & Going

Coaches stop at the Travel Centre at 156 Ridgeway Street.

Accommodation

Anndion Lodge

143 Anzac Parade, Wanganui

Tel (06) 343 3593 or 0800 343056

Braemar House YHA

2 Plymouth Road, Wanganui

Tel (06) 347 2529

Tamara Backpackers

24 Somme Parade, Wanganui

Tel (06) 347 6300

Sights

Durie Hill Elevator & Memorial Tower

If you walk across the Wanganui City Bridge you'll come to the Durie Hill tunnel, which takes you 205 metres into the hill where it meets the Durie Hill Elevator. Built in 1919, this historic lift takes you 66 metres up to the top of the hill. Once at the top, you can climb the 33.5 metre Memorial Tower for spectacular views of the city. On a clear day you can see Mounts Ruapehu and Taranaki.

Access to tunnel from Anzac Parade, Wanganui

Open Mon-Fri 7.30am-6pm, Sat 9am-5pm, Sun 10am-5pm

Queens Park

Originally the site of a Māori Pa, this city park is home to several of Wanganui's main sights including the Sarjeant Gallery and the Whanganui Regional Museum.

Sarjeant Gallery

The world-renowned Sarjeant Gallery occupies an imposing neo-classical building in Queens Park. It is one of New Zealand's best regional art galleries and is host to a varying exhibition programme.

Queens Park, Wanganui

Tel (06) 349 0506

Admission free

Open Mon-Sat 10.30am-4.30pm, Sun 1pm-4.30pm

Whanganui Regional Museum

This imposing regional museum is home to an extensive collection of exhibits with a focus on Māori culture, local and natural history. It is noted for its collection of Lindauer portraits and Māori taonga.

Watt Street, Wanganui

Tel (06) 345 7443

Website www.wanganui-museum.org.nz

Admission $2

Open Mon-Sat 10am-4.30pm, Sun 1pm-4.30pm

Whanganui Riverboat Centre

The Whanganui Riverboat Centre consists of the restored 100 year-old steam-powered paddle steamer Waimarie and a small museum. Waimarie plied the waters of the Whanganui River between 1899 and 1949 and she capsized and sank in 1952. In 1993 Waimarie was salvaged and after a seven-year restoration programme she was re-launched in 2000. Waimarie now runs regular cruises 13km upriver to the small settlement of Upokongoro.

1A Taupo Quay, Wanganui

Tel (06) 347 1863 or 0800 STEAMER

Website www.riverboat.co.nz

Admission free; cruises $25

Open Mon-Sat 9am-4pm, Sun 10am-4pm

Whanganui National Park

The mighty Whanganui River flows from the slopes of Mount Tongariro to Wanganui and much of its rugged grandeur is contained within the Whanganui National Park.

The national park has some great hiking trails and it is also home to the Great Walk that isn't really a walk – the Whanganui River Journey.

Hiking

Atene Skyline Track

The Atene Skyline Track (6-8hrs) starts on the Whanganui River Road, 35km from Wanganui. It is an excellent day hike that takes in magnificent views of Mount Ruapehu, Mount Taranaki and the Whanganui River.

Mangapurua Track

The Mangapurua Track (3-4hrs one-way) starts at either Ruatiti or Whakahoro and follows the Manapurua Valley via the Bridge to Nowhere. The track ends up at the Mangapurua Landing on the Whanganui River. Most people walk one way and take a jet boat back. There are several jet boat operators that offer this service including Bridge to Nowhere Tours (tel (06) 348 7122; website www.bridgetonowhere-lodge.co.nz) and River Spirit Jet Tours (tel (06) 342 1718; website www.riverspirit.co.nz).

Matemateonga Track

The Matemateonga Track (3-4hrs one-way) is a brilliant half-day hike that follows an old Māori trail into the wilderness of Whanganui National Park. Most people walk one way and take a jet boat back. There are several jet boat operators that offer this service including Bridge to Nowhere Tours (tel (06) 348 7122; website www.bridgetonowhere-lodge.co.nz) and River Spirit Jet Tours (tel (06) 342 1718; website www.riverspirit.co.nz).

Whanganui River Journey

The longest navigable river in New Zealand is the site of an outstanding canoe trip through the wilderness of the Whanganui National Park. Although it is a canoe trip, DOC classifies the Whanganui River Journey (145km; 3-5 days) as one of New Zealand's Great Walks – it's the walk you do sitting down.

The River Journey offers a lot more experiences than your regular hiking trail. You get to sit down and paddle down-river for five days, during this time you pass 249 named rapids (mostly grades one and two) and paddle under the famous Bridge to Nowhere and you have the chance to experience Māori culture at the Tieke Kainga marae.

Because it is a canoe trip it requires a bit more organisation than your average hike. You have the option of taking a guided canoe trip or hiring the canoes and finding your own way down river. You can hire either a kayak or Canadian canoe; many people prefer the open canoes, as they are more convenient for carrying camping gear.

If you're making the journey between October and April, you have to buy a hut and campsite pass ($25 for six nights) from a DOC office before starting your journey. Camping is free between May and September and you only need hut tickets, or an annual hut pass, if you're staying in huts.

THE JOURNEY

The River Journey starts at Cherry Grove near Taumaruni and finishes at Pipiriki, 68km north of Wanganui, and usually takes five days. There are only three huts along the route so you'll need to bring along a tent to camp the first night. The following description of the River Journey is broken into the four sections between the huts, however the first section is rather long and most people break it into two (making it a five day journey). The Guide to the Whanganui River describes the journey in more detail. This guide is available from DOC offices for $8.

Cherry Grove to Whakahoro Hut (57km)

Most of the rapids occur in the first part of the journey between Cherry Grove and Whakahoro Hut (57km), which most people take two days to complete.

There are three camping options on this stretch of the journey, these are Ohinepane, Poukaria and Maharanui – most people camp at either Ohinepane or Poukaria.

During the second day you'll pass the Niu Poles, where warriors would worship before battle.

Whakahoro Hut to John Coull Hut (37.5km)

During second part of the journey the river becomes a little calmer as you pass prominent cliffs. There is a small cave with glow worms located across the river from the Ohauora campsite, about two thirds of the way to John Coull Hut.

John Coull Hut and Tieke Kainga (29km)

At Mangapurua, 19km from John Coull Hut, you can make a short detour up the Mangapurua Stream to the famous Bridge to Nowhere. This concrete bridge would otherwise be fairly ordinary if it wasn't sitting in the middle of the wilderness. It was built shortly after World War I as an access route to new farming areas that were being developed at the time, however the project failed and the bridge now is just a rather surreal part of the Mangapurua Track.

Tieke Kainga is the highlight of this section of the journey. Tieke was originally an old pa (fortified village), which has been revived as a marae (Māori meeting place). It is a unique opportunity to experience Māori culture as you get to participate in a powhiri (welcome ceremony). You will be met at the riverbank and the protocol of the powhiri will be explained to you before you enter the marae. It is customary to present a koha (gift) during the powhiri, this may be anything such as food or money.

Tieke Kainga to Pipiriki (21.5km)

The final leg of the journey has some of the biggest rapids and the wilderness gives way to farmland as you approach Pipiriki.

GEAR RENTAL & GUIDED TRIPS

There are several companies that offer kayak and canoe rental; some of these companies also operate guided trips. These companies provide transport to and from the river. They include:

Blazing Paddles Canoe Adventures

1033 State Highway 4, Taumarunui

Tel (07) 895 5261 or 0800 BLAZING (0800 252 946)

Website www.blazingpaddles.co.nz

Canoe or kayak rental $160 for five days

Canoe Safaris

Tel (06) 385 9237 or 0800 2 PADDLE

Website www.canoesafaris.co.nz

Five-day guided trip $825

Yeti Tours

Tel (06) 385 8197 or 0800 322 388

Website www.canoe.co.nz

Canoe/kayak rental $195 per person for five days; six-day guided trip $995

Manawatu

Palmerston North

Palmy is home to Massey University, the country's second largest. Although it has a few interesting sights, it isn't a destination but instead it's just a place to pass through en route to somewhere more exciting.

Practical Information

Manawatu Visitor Centre

52 The Square, Palmerston North

Tel (06) 354 6593

Website www.manawatunz.co.nz

Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am-3pm

Department of Conservation

717 Tremaine Avenue, Palmerston North

Tel (06) 350 9700

Website www.doc.govt.nz

Open Mon-Fri 8am-4.30pm

Palmerston North City Library

Not only does the flash new library have Internet access, but there are lockers and showers too.

The Square, Palmerston North

Tel (06) 351 4100

Website http://citylibrary.pncc.govt.nz/

Internet access $6 per hour;

Showers $1

Coming & Going

Palmerston North is located at the crossroads of several air, coach and train routes and many people pass through here to make transport connections.

AIR

Palmerston North International Airport (tel (06) 351 4415; website www.pnairport.co.nz) is a low cost international gateway with international flights to Melbourne, Sydney, Brisbane and the Gold Coast in Australia and to Nadi, Fiji. Domestic flights go to Auckland, Christchurch, Hamilton, Nelson and Wellington.

The airport is only 5km north east of the city centre and Super Shuttle (tel 0800 SHUTTLE (0800 748 885); website www.supershuttle.co.nz) run minibuses to meet all flights.

BUS

Buses stop at the Travel Centre at the corner of Main and Pitt Streets. InterCity coaches go to most North Island destinations; Guthreys (tel 0800 759 999) go to Auckland, Rotorua, Taupo and Wellington.

The Kiwi Traveller shuttle (tel 0800 500 100; website www.kiwitraveller.co.nz) will pick you up at your hostel and runs to Rotorua, Taupo and Wellington.

TRAIN

Palmerston North lies on the main north-south rail line and has two to four trains per day in each direction including the Auckland to Wellington services plus the Capital Connection, which runs twice a day (Mon-Fri only) between Palmerston North and Wellington.

The train station is on Matthews Avenue, about 1km north of The Square.

Accommodation

Adventure Backpackers

95 King Street, Palmerston North

Tel (06) 358 9595

Grandma's Place

146 Grey Street, Palmerston North

Tel (06) 358 6928

Pepper Tree Hostel

121 Grey Street, Palmerston North

Tel (06) 355 4054

Sights

New Zealand Rugby Museum

The world's oldest museum devoted to rugby features an extensive collection of rugby memorabilia from around the world.

87 Cuba Street, Palmerston North

Tel (06) 358 6947

Website www.rugbymuseum.co.nz

Admission $4

Open Mon-Sat 10am-noon & 1.30pm-4pm, Sun 1.30pm-4pm

Te Manawa

This excellent regional museum combines exhibits in the fields of art, history and science. It is a well laid out museum with many interactive exhibits.

396 Main Street, Palmerston North

Tel (06) 355 5000

Website www.temanawa.co.nz

Admission $6

Open 10am-5pm daily

Owlcatraz

This wildlife park focuses on owls, but there are also other animals. Visitors to Owlcatraz go on a guided tour that takes them into the enclosure with the owls. A full tour takes a couple of hours.

State Highway 57, Shannon (½hr south of Palmerston North)

Tel (06) 362 7872

Website www.owlcatraz.co.nz

Admission $15

Tours depart 10am, 3pm

Taihape

This small town is a good place to break the journey on State Highway 1 while driving between Wellington and Auckland. There is also a good extreme sports complex south of town with bungee jumping and a flying fox.

Accommodation

River Valley Lodge

RD2, Pukeokahu, Taihape

Tel (06) 388 1444

The Stockman's Lodge

9 Dixon Way, Taihape

Tel (06) 388 1584

Activities

Mokai Gravity Canyon

This extreme sports centre south of Taihape boasts a 180m-high 1km-long flying fox and an 80-metre-high bungee jump.

Mokai Bridge, Taihape

Tel (06) 388 9109 or 0800 802 864

Website www.gravitycanyon.co.nz

Bungee jump $125; flying fox $99